Ask almost any seasoned dining veteran on the island, expatriate or visitor, which restaurant has one of the best beach views and the answer will, invariably, be Gado Gado.
The kitchen command changed hands, the menu strayed into foolishly ambitious territories and the once loyal crowd collectively voted with their feet.
Gado Gado was but a memory, albeit a fond one. From the entrée selection the foie gras terrine with vanilla, fig compote, herb salad and toasted brioche is palatable but nowhere near as rewarding as the excellent ceviche of fresh sea bass with fresh herbs and a sour dough crumble – a dish that is unusual, highly original and rewarding, full marks.
A token nod is cast at any visiting vegetarians with just one main course being available – a semolina gnocchi with marinate artichoke, morel mushrooms and creamy goats cheese sauce. The roasted duck breast with red cabbage, caramelized apple, pommes salardaise and cumin jus could easily have been a disaster but arrives at the table in pristine condition. The duck breast perfectly pink and tender, the cumin jus bringing the dish to life and matched exquisitely to a recommended Pinot Noir on the advice of the staff.
Dessert is a short lived affair with an excellent vanilla infused crème brulee rounding off an impressive return to form for the team at Gado Gado.
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